Vichy Water

Vichyssoise can be served either hot or cold. Each is appropriate depending on the weather … cold in summer, hot in cold weather. And it can also be pureed or chunky. I like it pureed when cold and chunky when hot. But, to me the secret to good vichyssoise is the quantity of leeks, the quality of the chicken broth, and the herbs used to flavor.

So start with one huge or two smaller leaks. Clean them well according to the myriad of advisories on just about every other cooking show (split and de-sand under running water). Then cut them crosswise into ¼ inch pieces. I like to include at least ½ of the green part, but purists disagree and eschew the verdant. Sauté these leaks in about a quarter cup of butter or good olive oil adding a palm full of salt and a good pinch of fresh-ground pepper as you stir. Next add about a quart or more of good low-sodium chicken broth (home-made if you can) and a quart or more of cold water.

Then peel, roughly dice (1 inch pieces), and add about six or seven good sized Russet potatoes. Bring up to a boil and cook until the potatoes are soft (at least 15 minutes). Now add either two teaspoons of minced fresh tarragon (my preference) or fresh chervil (half this amount of these same herbs, if dried), stir, and heat for another few minutes. Now carefully add more salt to taste … as potatoes have a way of reducing salt’s impact.

Now you can use an immersion blender (or potato masher) briefly to chop things up a bit … or take this soup all the way down to a puree. Again serve hot or cold according to your want and the weather. But in either case sprinkle a goodly amount of chopped chives on top of each bowl and have the pepper mill handy. Serve with a nice salad (Caesar?), crusty rustic bread, and a well-chilled white wine (vino verde?).  Serves about six people.  Is even better the next day.

One Potato, Two … Three Potatoes, Four …

Potato salad can be leaden and sticky … or light and tasty. I like the latter. Here is my take:

Boil four or five large Russet or Yukon Gold potatoes in a copious amount of salted water. When fully cooked (use the fork test), drain out the water and, when just cool enough to handle, peel them and cut them into ½ to 1 inch cubes … placing them into a large colander to dry. While still warm, put them in a large bowl and pour a scant two tablespoons of good sharp cider vinegar over them ... or substitute the juice of half a lemon for half the vinegar. Now clean two celery stalks and two scallions and chop them into fine cubes somewhat smaller than the potatoes. Add this to the potatoes along with a palm full of capers, salt and pepper to taste, a good half cup of Hellman’s mayonnaise, and a heaping tablespoon of poppy seeds (or celery seeds or even caraway seeds, but poppy seeds are best).

Cover and place in the ice box (an Emeril affectation) until well chilled. Then and only then, mix well, being careful not to mash the potatoes (less likely when they are not warm). When ready to serve, if the potato salad is too congealed, add a few teaspoons of cold butter milk and mix lightly to loosen it up. Then grate a cleaned cold carrot on the top and serve with your favorite picnic favorites (fried chicken would be nice.)

Speaking of cold buttermilk ... it is one of the best thirst quenchers around.  Try drinking a glass of it on a hot summer afternoon and see for yourself.  This benefit was common knowlege to our grandparents but is gradually being forgotten.  Drinking bittermilk is also often looked down on because of the way it makes the glass look afterward ... and also because of its name.  Many believe buttermilk contains butter.  In fact, it is the opposite.  It is what remains after butter making.  Our grandparents knew this.  Few of us now do.

New England Boiled Dinner

This is a great autumn dinner and it is so simple as to be embarrassing. My German grandparents used to call this a New England boiled dinner, but, since it doesn’t include corned beef or cabbage, I think it must be a variation on an old German dish. (Actually, it was called "supper" since it was often served by my grandmother on Sunday around 2 PM.  "Dinner" was a more modest meal served later that day ... often just a big apple turnover.)

First get a nice loin of pork (about 3 or 4 pounds) and rinse it well. Place it in a large pot (such as Le Creuset) of cold water and add about 5 allspice berries, 5 black peppercorns, and a bay leaf or two (a dried Polish mushroom or two would also be good). Cover and bring up to a rolling simmer. (Do not hard boil, it toughens the pork.) Cook on low heat, covered for about an hour before you add two or three packages of sauerkraut and four large Russet potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters. If you are so inclined you might also add a few small peeled onions and cleaned and quartered carrots (not necessary though). Cook another half hour uncovered so that the moisture levels are adjusted downward. Finally add about 6 good quality hot dogs or knockwurst, recover the pot and steam them for another 15 minutes. (I like them to crack open.)

Serves 4 to 6 people. May I suggest that a serving might consist of 3 or 4 potato pieces which are then fork-mashed and buttered and peppered. Then cover with sauerkraut, a good piece of pork loin (should be falling-apart tender), and a hot dog or knockwurst. Add some good German or Polish mustard, some crusty seeded rye bread, and crack a cold German beer. Enjoy!

You Say Scalloped, I Say Escalloped

Potatoes that is. This is a relatively low-calorie version of the classic lyonnaise potatoes … without the heavy cream and loads of butter. I prefer saying “escalloped potatoes” because it makes it clearer that it does not contain those shellfish.

This recipe is quite simple and delicious: Peel and thinly slice (a Mandolin helps) three or four medium to large Russet potatoes soaking the slices in cold water for about fifteen minutes. In the meantime peel, crosscut and thinly slice a very large onion (or two smaller ones) and saute these slices in some olive oil and a dollop of butter until they are dark brown but not burned. Add a little salt, pepper and dried thyme and mix well. Butter the bottom and sides of an oven-proof dish that fits in your toaster oven.

Now, layer the dried-off potato slices and onion mixture in this dish, lightly salting and peppering the potato slices as you go. Don’t go above four or five layers stopping on the potato layer. Now add enough boxed chicken stock to come up to the top of these layers. May I suggest the new product called “rotisserie chicken stock”. It is darker and more flavorful (or make your own chicken stock from a leftover rotisserie chicken.) Cover the top with grated Gruyere cheese.  (Don’t skimp on the quality or quantity here.)  Place in the toaster oven set on 350 degrees and bake for 45 minutes. At the end, if the top is not bubbly and brown, put the toaster oven on broil for a few minutes until it is.

Enjoy with a baked ham, a meat loaf (with some bottled horseradish), or a roast beef (ditto on the horseradish).

Shepherd’s Pie-eyed

This Shepherd’s pie recipe is inspired by a dish served at a diner where I once washed dished when I was in college (Hal's ... and was the first job from which I was fired).

Ingredients:
1½ pounds lean ground beef or lamb (neck meat is best … grind your own if you can)
2 small yellow onions, chopped
2 Tbsp. olive oil
½ pound green beans, cleaned, deveined, halved and cooked al dente in salted water
3 large Russet potatoes peeled and quartered
½ cup milk (or cream)
3 dollops of butter
½ Tsp. thyme
5 good dashes of Worcestershire sauce
Salt and pepper to taste
5 or 6 more dollops of butter for the top of the mashed potatoes
Sprinkling of paprika

Boil the potatoes in a large sauce pan of water until tender. Drain well and return to a low heat. Mash these potatoes well, adding a large pinch of salt a 2 or 3 grinds of black pepper. Whip these mashed potatoes well with the milk or cream. If the potatoes appear mushy, they will tighten up as you continue whipping them over low heat. Add the first 3 dollops of butter. Stir and set aside.

In a large frying pan, add the olive oil and heat until almost smoking. Add the chopped onions. Sauté until transparent. Add the ground meat. Add the thyme, Worcestershire sauce, and the salt and pepper to taste. Cook until well browned. Add the cooked and drained green beans. Mix well. Transfer to a baking dish and cover with the mashed potatoes. Place the rest of the butter dollops on top and sprinkle with paprika. Place under the broiler and cook until the top is a golden brown. Serve with nice crusty bread and a good quality cold beer in a frosty glass. And I know it is anathema, but I also enjoy a little ketchup on the side.