Vinaigrette

I don’t remember where I learned this one, but it never fails to bring raves.  I've had to give this simple recipe to numerous friends.

Put a large pinch of kosher salt in the bottom of a wooden bowl. Slice up one large or two small cloves of garlic and place on top of the salt. Use a hefty and narrow-tonged fork or even a mortar to crush the garlic well into the salt … making into a paste. Add a good dollop of Dijon mustard and the juice of one-half a juicy lemon (or all the juice of a not-so-juicy lemon). I also like to add a big splash of good red-wine vinegar now. Mix it well with a fork adding about 3 or 4 turns of a pepper mill. If you must add an herb, try chervil ... about 1/2 a tablespoon.  Next drizzle in about 4 or more tablespoons of good extra-virgin olive oil, mixing all the while with the fork to create a creamy emulsion.

The actual salad contents can vary greatly, but how about a package of mesclun-mix greens, a bunch of halved cherry or grape tomatoes and three sliced-up scallions? And maybe even some crumbled up blue cheese?

Vichy Water

Vichyssoise can be served either hot or cold. Each is appropriate depending on the weather … cold in summer, hot in cold weather. And it can also be pureed or chunky. I like it pureed when cold and chunky when hot. But, to me the secret to good vichyssoise is the quantity of leeks, the quality of the chicken broth, and the herbs used to flavor.

So start with one huge or two smaller leaks. Clean them well according to the myriad of advisories on just about every other cooking show (split and de-sand under running water). Then cut them crosswise into ¼ inch pieces. I like to include at least ½ of the green part, but purists disagree and eschew the verdant. Sauté these leaks in about a quarter cup of butter or good olive oil adding a palm full of salt and a good pinch of fresh-ground pepper as you stir. Next add about a quart or more of good low-sodium chicken broth (home-made if you can) and a quart or more of cold water.

Then peel, roughly dice (1 inch pieces), and add about six or seven good sized Russet potatoes. Bring up to a boil and cook until the potatoes are soft (at least 15 minutes). Now add either two teaspoons of minced fresh tarragon (my preference) or fresh chervil (half this amount of these same herbs, if dried), stir, and heat for another few minutes. Now carefully add more salt to taste … as potatoes have a way of reducing salt’s impact.

Now you can use an immersion blender (or potato masher) briefly to chop things up a bit … or take this soup all the way down to a puree. Again serve hot or cold according to your want and the weather. But in either case sprinkle a goodly amount of chopped chives on top of each bowl and have the pepper mill handy. Serve with a nice salad (Caesar?), crusty rustic bread, and a well-chilled white wine (vino verde?).  Serves about six people.  Is even better the next day.

Simply Simple

Here is a recipe for an hors d’oeurve that contains only five ingredients and about which I have had continued raves. (And it was given to me by my wife’s father, Leo, a former chef at Luchow’s.) The ingredients are: a large package of room-temperature cream cheese, 5 scallions chopped into bite sized pieces, 5 radishes (preferably French Breakfast) chopped into bite sized pieces, a good pinch of salt, and a good pinch of freshly-ground pepper. That’s it. Put all this into a pretty bowl, mix well and refrigerate for a few hours. Serve with crispy crackers or thinly sliced crusty bread and your favorite cocktails. Enjoy ... and then look up and thank Leo.

Addendum: the reason that they are called "French Breakfast" radishes is that the French often eat them in the AM, thinly sliced on a well-buttered baguette with salt and pepper.  Try this tip with what you have left over from the above recipe.